Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky

Leeroy Jenkins here...
 Well, we arrived in the Red River Gorge at about 6:30 pm on friday after a 4 hr drive listening to Chris Kalous rambling about the creek, not too bad.  And some how we managed to talk Vanek into coming with us... yeah a few more days of vanties, talk about lucky.  We're staying at the Land of the Arches Campground on rt. 715 a place we heard about a few nights before sitting around a campfire talking to some kids who mentioned a barn where there were some couches and a ping pong table; so in our rainy predicament we went to waterstone (the new's outdoor shop) and got some info including a number for the place.  so the next day i called and got an answering machine, so i left a message.  I wasn't really expecting an answer, because it seems that if no one picks up at a campground, your out of luck... But the next morning, the morning we were leaving i turned on my phone to find i had a message.  Here the owner called me back "awh yeah we got plenty of room here, just show up, fill out the paperwork and throw down a sleeping bag in the barn, the door will be open.  Looks like a rough weekend for weather but hopefully the crags will be dry." I was stoked; at that moment we were convinced we found the place to be in the red.

We arrived, walked in the door and i swear i was in heaven.  couches, tables, a bouldering wall, and most importantly hot showers and a roof over our heads.  With some info from another guy staying there, we got settled and made ourselves at home. oh yeah its only 5 bucks a night! talk about a great deal.

The next day we headed to the bruise brothers wall in hopes for dry rock, and it was pretty damp, but we climbed anyway.  got on some warmups and a few harder routes but nothing to exciting considering the rain. We met a cool group of kids going to school in Indiana, who were camping at miguels, but we gave them the heads up that they could be dry and they joined us in the barn. we got back to the campground and met Dave, the owner, and by far one of the best people we've met so far.  He's very intelligent and insightful, and makes you feel like he's known you for years.  And he remembered my name based on the message i left.  He's a great dude.

On sunday the whole lot of us planned on climbing at PMRP and more specifically the solar collector wall and gold coast. They left before us, and after Jeff turned around his crv due to some pretty rough, rutted dirt roads and rain, Eric and I were the only ones who made it to the trail head.  I have to say i gave him a lot of flack for buying those ridiculous tires, but they got us to some dry rock.  we were amazed to find dry rock in the conditions we were facing.  We got on a stellar 5.10a sport route that was a bona fide jug haul.  I mean it was like: pow jug, pow jug, pow pinch, clip, bam jug (sorry im a few PBRs deep right now), and we also climbed a 10d which was a little wetter, and the holds were pasty but we went for it anyway. This crag is exactly what i pictured when i thought of the red; steep walls with pockets and jugs.  you can make a route fit you and your style perfectly. It also has 6' diameter huecos you can just post up in.

Today, Monday, Vanek left one tuckey for the other and headed home after a few games of foosball, and we threw Jeff in the back of the jeep and headed back to the PMRP.  Jeff led his first route on gear, and survived; a great first step on the road to being a well rounded climber.  and i sewed up a sweet 5.9+ hand crack called broken chicken wing.  It was a challenge but a great success.  We then went to the solar collector wall and climbed the 5.10a once again to give jeff a taste.  

We have the wood stove cookin', and the PBRs are flowing, Life is Good.

 Its Jeff. Lee kinda just wrote a novel and I don't have the attention span to read all that so if I repeat, I don't apologize. Got here to the barn and got our first hot shower, good deal. Ever since we got to WV we all have developed this red neck accent which we communicate with most of the day but it's fun. First day out on the rocks we got to climb wet rocks which is ok I suppose. Second day it started raining half way to the crag, with the roads too rough for the CRV and my mind in a frustrated place I went back to the barn. Proceeded to drink the last of the good beer, had a couple smokes an took me a nap. Today was good though Eric and Lee got to climb and explore yesterday so we had dry rock to climb today. I lead my first route placing my own gear which was a good start. Then there was the 5.9 crack, only my second crack climb. It was plain hard not to mention a new technique for me but I got up, good stuff. Last climb of the day was a 5.10a, well within my ability but I made it a hell of a lot harder due to sloppy climbing. Were going back though, Ima send it. To all of those close to me I miss ya. Stay smelly. See ya'll soon.


If yer ever at the Red, stay at Land of the Arches, you won't be disappointed.
Land of the Arches

Jeff leading his first route on gear

Eric cleaning Broken Chicken Wing

Lee with those toprope belay blues... Superior balance?

Jeff startin' the 5.10a

ginger anyone?

Solar Collector wall

Land of the Arches

Land of the Arches