Sand in my Crack

Hello Comrades.
Leeroy here

Its been a while since our last real update, probably about a week ago and we have been busy since then.  We went to LRC in Tennessee, and then down to Alabama to Horse Pens 40, a beautiful bouldering area with some of the best sandstone around.  We sent quite a few problems at both and were shut down on just as many others.  I managed to send my first v7 at LRC, which i was totally stoked on.  As far as horsepens is concerned, i sent a few v3s and v4s including mortal kombat, a beautiful arete layback on smears, topping at about 20 feet;  Super exciting.  I left a lot of projects there so i have the perfect excuse to head back to the southeast very soon. 

On friday, we got a wild hair up our asses and headed straight to El Paso, TX at 6:30.  We drove all night, passing through Mississippi and Louisiana rather quickly, and hit Texas.  I was like "all right that wasn't so bad..." only to realize we would be on rt. 20 for another 800 miles to top off the 500 we already drove and a new landscape is interesting but only for so long when you're driving straight for 800 miles. We made it to the Rock Ranch at about 4:30.  And stepped out of the jeep to a beautiful 70 degrees.

The desert is pretty awesome and im enjoying it, yesterday it was super windy (50 mph gusts) and my entire tent was covered with sand but that probably helped it from blowing away.  its dry and warm; perfect as far as i'm concerned. 

We rested saturday, and climbed sunday.  There are some awesome climbs and its taking a moment to  understand the rock.  Its interesting, but it seems as though for most problems there is some trick beta or its just really sandbagged.  either way its polished and i was wishing for that southern sandstone.  but i'm learning how to climb this strange brown granite, and hopefully will put down some projects before our time here is up.

EZE E
Yeah, so sandstone compared to granite? Sandstone for the win...so far. I definitaly miss the southeastern bouldering mecca but i feel that the more i get on the granite the more i will like it. I hope. I have been getting shut down and humbled by all tough problems but i have no doubt that i will be able to send my projects by the time we leave this place. Despite the frustrastion of the climbing the vibe and community of the Hueco Rock Ranch are pretty sweet. Every one here from France to California to Alaska and New Zealand, are so friendly and very down to earth. Its great climbing with different people everyday.

As far as being in the desert goes. . .it sucks. Im pretty sure the only thing i like about the desert is being able to climb a rock. The Texas desert especially is almost my hell on earth. Not spending my time on the snow is a frustrating switch for me this winter and i am keeping it on my mind that i will be in some deep pow pow soon. Although i am gaining new respects for rock climbing and the dedication it takes to be as strong as some of the climbers here are. At least the weather is nice and i can work on my beach bod tan. . . CTD (climbing, tanning, drinking).

Hello, hello. So it seems I've sprained a tendon that runs from the middle of my palm to my forearm. Its not bad but it could get worse, and worse could mean the end of my climbing (for the trip). So I have to take more days off then days on, and when I do climb I can't exactly push myself. So it sucks but I'm still glad to be here. Were meeting some very cool people here at the ranch form all over the world; people doing what they love. The desert is beautiful, way different from the landscape at home. Open flat land, littered with massive 500-1000ft tall hills, from certain point of views the sky goes as far as the eye can see. We've had perfect whether, sunny and warm. Except for yesterday which was certainly some of the wildest whether I've experienced. We were on a rest day heading to Walmart, the wind was blowing a consistent 35mph, soon enough it was snowing. As we drove along, to our left was clouds, snow, and dust? To our right sunny skys. The tents got a good dusting but its all gravy, shake that shit out and go to sleep. I like it out here, it's relaxing.

Here is a video that a friend put together from climbing in the southeast awesomeness:
The Dirty South

Latin for Daggers (photos: Eric)

Eric working Crack of Doom

John on the Kind Flake

Lee working the Morgue at Hueco (Photos: Eric)

Eric working T-Bone Shuffle

Everything's bigger in Texas

Hey everyone, Lee here, so we just left horse pens 40 in Steele, Alabama and we decided "screw it, let's drive to hueco." We're not goin to horseshoe canyon ranch in Arkansas, we decided to chase the sun and head straight to Texas for 9 days. We will do a legitimate update but here's some pictures to hold you over.

1300 miles to go!

Tennessee Tennessee ain't no place I'd rather be

We're sitting in the super 8 crashing in on some showers at ben, john and smitty's hotel room, looking at videos and pictures of the past two days of climbing.  might i add the best climbing we have done thus far.  the southeast is everything i could've hoped it would be, beautiful sandstone boulders with the best slopers you can wrap your hand around.  We have all have had a great trip so far; getting on super classics at Rocktown in Georgia, and Eric and Jeff both getting their first v5s; talk about awesome. i've managed to climb 4 stellar v5's including a flash of crock block a beautiful steep line with about 18 foot of locking off slopers.  the best, but everyone was so stoked on climbing the line that there are no photos; oh well.  Rocktown is awesome.  Today we took a rest day and went to dayton, TN. to the laurel pockett wilderness.  There is some beautiful climbing there but the six of us decided to just hike the woods and look at the area.  Tomorrow we are going to Little Rock City, and later HP40.  the weather looks beautiful as far as the eye can see.  Adios.

Its E-ROCK people.
      We got to Georgia about 12:30 am, everyone pissed off and tired. Turns out we drove close to an hour on a back-mountains road only to find ourselves lost. We ended up finding the campsite, set up shop in the field and passed out. Woke up cold but really happy....i saw the sun. We loaded the crash pads in our somewhat trusty cars and drove 3 minutes to the boudlers. The past few days have been some pretty solid climbing between the 3 of us. We are all hard and pushing ourselves to the max on a few problems. I was able to send a V5 (the commit) after multiple attempts along with Jeff. All six of us took a rest day today and got the opportunity to see some beautiful Tennessee country side and eat a local brewery which has been a nice change after a few weeks of camping.  although Im not sure the person sitting next to me at the bar was a fan of my dirtbag look... or smell. Back to the rock tomorrow for a one way ticket to send town . . . or shut down street.

I'm being lazy. These past four days have been awesome. Got two great days at The red in Kentucy, and two at Rocktown Georgia; the coolest boulders I've seen. I'm enjoying myself, progressing in my climbing and it feels good. Chillen in Tennessee now, Little Rock City tomorrow I'm excited. Stay diggin' deep.   

Lee climbing the last day at the Red

Jeff climbing last day at the Red

Jeff on Gritstone Arete

John on Big Bad Boulder

Neb Reslas on the Little Bad Boulder Rocktown, GA

   

Stir Crazy in the South

Its the O.G. (original ginger)

      So the amount of climbing down here at The Red has been minimal. Between the rain and the cold temperatures it has been a frustrating and demotivational the past few days. Despite getting robbed the ability to climb more then one or two routes a day, we have taken up other activities such as riding a unicycle and cracking peanuts. I do have to say that we have been making it outside for some adventure and exploration. Tuesday Lee, Jeff and myself checked out some more walls in PRMP. Our initial efforts where to find the wall called "The Chocolate Factory". After about 2 hours of hiking up and down gravel roads, in and out of well pumps and finding the wrong crag, we decided for a retreat to the jeep for some food and thought.  Our second attempts at finding the trail were a little more successful realizing that the path was about 50 yards from the jeep. Awesome. We hiked back to the wall and gawked at the world famous climb "Pure Imagination" (5.14c), which has been recently been degraded by Adam Ondra. Realizing that i will not be climbing a route of that magnitude anytime, i studied it, laughed at the intensity and walked away like a badass. I believe we will be returning there tomorrow (Friday, Jan. 18th). 

      

      Today (Thursday, Jan 17) was the first day of the week that all three of us got to climb hard on some dry rock. Battling numb fingers, frigid toes and the hopes of the sun coming out, i was able to work on a route  that i attempted the first day of climbing in The Red. The route "Hey There Fancy Pants" is a beautiful 5.10c that is about 55ft and just pushing my level of climbing, gave me a run for my money today. I was able to complete the route but not give it a solid send, even with the fancy pants  setup i had.  This isn't over between the two of us. . .  

      It seems that when ever we leave an area the weather decides to flip on us for the better. We left The New and the sun came out. We leave The Red tomorrow and guess what. . . the sun is going to be shining in full. It will be the first time we have seen the sun since friday and i fear we may melt or go blind. It will be a half day of go hard or go home climbing in the morning then its off for a nice long bouldering sesh in Chattanooga and surrounding areas. The best news of the next two weeks is no rain as far as the eye can see and the temp. should be decent (between 40-50). 

      The Land of The Arches has been a very cozy home considering our circumstances and giving up the nice luxuries like a hot shower and wifi will suck a little, but for me, going back to somewhat primitive camping and hustling the woods is good escape from the techknowledgey that can suck life away. 

 So it seems Lee, aaand Eric are striving to be novelists. But yea, Eric gave yall a nice run down of the past few days. Tuesday was fun towards the end of the day and yesterday was cool too, some of the thickest forest we have been in. We went to see a pretty massive natural rock arch that I suppose was carved by water. The trees had a layer of ice upon them, down to the very last twig. Plus there was some serious fog out there which provided the day with it's very own aura. Me and Eric ate ice that pulled right off the pine needles on top of the arch. We call them; "Pine-sicles," delicious. To be honest the lack of climbing was getting to me. I became bored and frustrated. Were on this amazing trip and have been stuck inside all too much. But today was great, first good day of good climbing since the first two days of the trip. I sent my first 5.10c. The climb;"Hey there Fancy Pants" I think it's a five star. Thing climbs so nice. Went at it twice getting to the crux but slipped off. But the third times the charm, felt awesome. As the sun was going down it actually came out, I was on the last climb of the day. Hiked back in the night, great day. We just said farewell to Bill the maintinence guy, awesome dude along with the owner Dave. Been a nice treat staying here this past week but tomorrow we will be packing up, do some climbing, and then its off to Rocktown, Georgia/ Chattanooga, Tennessee. Were drinking beers, Eric's working the Unicycle, an purtty soon we'll be jammin'. Stay dirty friends, stay dirty. Jeffrey out.

Howdy its Lee here,

Today was good, i got on that there 5.10c that those two have been raving about, fell once due to numb fingers... sent it the next go, it was good; nice moves.  Afterwards i got on a 5.11a and it was sweet, super technical and balanced, with big moves; sent it first go.  That makes me wish we had more than just tomorrow to get on harder stuff.  But tomorrow were going to the chocolate factory and i think with some work pure imagination should go down... (i mean it got downgraded to 5.14c.) but the sun should be out thank god.  For those that don't really care about my climbing exploits, everything is good, the arches is treating me well.  We are warm and dry, and i'm looking forward to better weather.  On to the Chattanooga area for some sun and the best bouldering in the southeast.

Peace Love and Chicken Grease


These first five photos are from our rest day visit to natural bridge state park

Eric's Fancy Pants

Eric on "Hey there fancy pants"

Jeff on "hey there fancy pants"

Lee on 5.11a

   Excuse Jeff's language, if you can't cope, don't press play... although it is of eric riding a unicycle.

Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky

Leeroy Jenkins here...
 Well, we arrived in the Red River Gorge at about 6:30 pm on friday after a 4 hr drive listening to Chris Kalous rambling about the creek, not too bad.  And some how we managed to talk Vanek into coming with us... yeah a few more days of vanties, talk about lucky.  We're staying at the Land of the Arches Campground on rt. 715 a place we heard about a few nights before sitting around a campfire talking to some kids who mentioned a barn where there were some couches and a ping pong table; so in our rainy predicament we went to waterstone (the new's outdoor shop) and got some info including a number for the place.  so the next day i called and got an answering machine, so i left a message.  I wasn't really expecting an answer, because it seems that if no one picks up at a campground, your out of luck... But the next morning, the morning we were leaving i turned on my phone to find i had a message.  Here the owner called me back "awh yeah we got plenty of room here, just show up, fill out the paperwork and throw down a sleeping bag in the barn, the door will be open.  Looks like a rough weekend for weather but hopefully the crags will be dry." I was stoked; at that moment we were convinced we found the place to be in the red.

We arrived, walked in the door and i swear i was in heaven.  couches, tables, a bouldering wall, and most importantly hot showers and a roof over our heads.  With some info from another guy staying there, we got settled and made ourselves at home. oh yeah its only 5 bucks a night! talk about a great deal.

The next day we headed to the bruise brothers wall in hopes for dry rock, and it was pretty damp, but we climbed anyway.  got on some warmups and a few harder routes but nothing to exciting considering the rain. We met a cool group of kids going to school in Indiana, who were camping at miguels, but we gave them the heads up that they could be dry and they joined us in the barn. we got back to the campground and met Dave, the owner, and by far one of the best people we've met so far.  He's very intelligent and insightful, and makes you feel like he's known you for years.  And he remembered my name based on the message i left.  He's a great dude.

On sunday the whole lot of us planned on climbing at PMRP and more specifically the solar collector wall and gold coast. They left before us, and after Jeff turned around his crv due to some pretty rough, rutted dirt roads and rain, Eric and I were the only ones who made it to the trail head.  I have to say i gave him a lot of flack for buying those ridiculous tires, but they got us to some dry rock.  we were amazed to find dry rock in the conditions we were facing.  We got on a stellar 5.10a sport route that was a bona fide jug haul.  I mean it was like: pow jug, pow jug, pow pinch, clip, bam jug (sorry im a few PBRs deep right now), and we also climbed a 10d which was a little wetter, and the holds were pasty but we went for it anyway. This crag is exactly what i pictured when i thought of the red; steep walls with pockets and jugs.  you can make a route fit you and your style perfectly. It also has 6' diameter huecos you can just post up in.

Today, Monday, Vanek left one tuckey for the other and headed home after a few games of foosball, and we threw Jeff in the back of the jeep and headed back to the PMRP.  Jeff led his first route on gear, and survived; a great first step on the road to being a well rounded climber.  and i sewed up a sweet 5.9+ hand crack called broken chicken wing.  It was a challenge but a great success.  We then went to the solar collector wall and climbed the 5.10a once again to give jeff a taste.  

We have the wood stove cookin', and the PBRs are flowing, Life is Good.

 Its Jeff. Lee kinda just wrote a novel and I don't have the attention span to read all that so if I repeat, I don't apologize. Got here to the barn and got our first hot shower, good deal. Ever since we got to WV we all have developed this red neck accent which we communicate with most of the day but it's fun. First day out on the rocks we got to climb wet rocks which is ok I suppose. Second day it started raining half way to the crag, with the roads too rough for the CRV and my mind in a frustrated place I went back to the barn. Proceeded to drink the last of the good beer, had a couple smokes an took me a nap. Today was good though Eric and Lee got to climb and explore yesterday so we had dry rock to climb today. I lead my first route placing my own gear which was a good start. Then there was the 5.9 crack, only my second crack climb. It was plain hard not to mention a new technique for me but I got up, good stuff. Last climb of the day was a 5.10a, well within my ability but I made it a hell of a lot harder due to sloppy climbing. Were going back though, Ima send it. To all of those close to me I miss ya. Stay smelly. See ya'll soon.


If yer ever at the Red, stay at Land of the Arches, you won't be disappointed.
Land of the Arches

Jeff leading his first route on gear

Eric cleaning Broken Chicken Wing

Lee with those toprope belay blues... Superior balance?

Jeff startin' the 5.10a

ginger anyone?

Solar Collector wall

Land of the Arches

Land of the Arches

Leaving Las Fayetteville

Today we are leaving the new, with a few wet days behind us, and heading to the Red River Gorge.  there is threat of rain but we're staying at Land of the Arches where we can sleep indoors and get hot showers for 5 bucks a night.  Pretty awesome set up.  the crags at the red are overhanging so we should be able to clip bolts regardless of the weather.

We went to summersville lake on Wednesday, with hopes to get on some classics but the clouds took a dump on us and we ended up only getting to lead a 5.7 warmup. It was a total bummer.  Luckily chris showed us narcissist and went for the lead, it was a crazy overhanging 12a in a massive ampitheater.  he got really close to the send but ended up missing a dead point move.  After he clipped the anchors Eric and Jeff tried their hand on it on top rope, both getting to the crux.  I was inspired and a little scared but i roped up and gave it a try, and ended up fighting the pump with three falls and clipping the chains.  It was awesome, I was stoked to get on my first 12 and get to the anchors.

Its the dude man Jeff here. So we were expecting sun Thursday morning along with some sweet sport to climb. Instead we woke to fog and wet rock. We decided to head to the cave to work the V5 roof problem, perfect test for my new kicks, heel hook city ya dig. So I worked it in four sections got all my beta and gave it a real go. First attempt got sloppy in the middle and wasted too much time and energy. Second attempt was probably the best I've felt on a boulder, I was cruising strong and fluent, went for a jug but landed just short on a sloper, tried to pull up a heel and slipped off. There were five pads on the ground and I missed all of them. I dropped like a sack-o-sand, landing on the rocky floor left forearm first. First blood of the trip. To credit the other guys they were taking photos while I was climbing but luckily Eric had his first aid kit. I gave it one last try, this time landing on the jug, I got to the last moves but was totally pumped, that thing is long. I'll be back. So were here at the Cathedral Cafe, just had a real breakfast. Its nice out and ironically I have some unfinished business at a V4 in the Dam called "Leaving Los Fayetteville" I plan on sending and skippin' town to The Red in Kentucky. Till next time. Stay dirty.


Your now tuning into the token "Ginger" (Eric). Well, despite the weather and rain toying with our emotions for the past few days we have all been able to maintain a pretty positive attitude here in West Virginia. I was able to send some nice long sport routes Wednesday with Chris, but my luck soon ran out. The next day there was a rain route (5.7 warm up climb) to be lead and i was up for the climb. Needless to say we ended up in the cave working the 5.12a (Narcissist). My body seemed to be off to a rough start, my tendonitis was acting up and a pretty bad tooth ache that racked my brain pretty well. Slowly but surely im gaining control over my body again and showing who the real boss is. I was able to work on the rainy day V5 with the others and will be sending some nice sport down in The Red very soon. Well to the hillbillies, hippies and that good ol' shine. . . its been fun West virginia.

Jeff working the beta on the cave V5

Eric bearing down on the 2 finger pocket

Jeff bicycling his way out the roof

Lee chalking up on Narcissist

Chris cruising to the high first clip

"Hey there big boy, whatcha up to?"

 Jeff eying up the Master Chief 

 Leaving Cotton top for the last time

Summersville Lake and bridge

The idea of being on the road is starting to set in; instead of heading back to pennsyltuckey as usual, we're moving on.  The same thrill and excitement of the road that we experienced on the first day, we're experiencing again.  The lure of the open road has captivated us and we're jumping in head first. 

New River Gorge

Its day 3 of the trip, 2 days of bouldering and Jeff and I are on our "rest day"; Eric and Chris are climbing at bubba city, we plan on catching up with them after lunch.  Camping has been good; this should be the coldest spot for a while, with lows in the 20s.  The cars are working out well, we are perfecting our packing and streamlining so its easy to keep under control.  We've all got the grunge smell cooking, but i guess if we all smell we should be desensitized to each other. We're eating on the cheap, but anything is good with enough seasoning and hot sauce.  Thank god for coffee in the morning, it saves the day.  We have a lot of snacks and a lot of beer, a problem we will wish we have for the rest of the trip im sure.

 The first day we went to Cotton Hill to boulder, Its a cool spot right on the river, with a 2 minute approach.  It was cloudy and in the mid 30s, but there was thankfully no snow.  Worked on a couple fours, chris and i sent "slitty titty", jeff sent his first v4, "mines of moria" a great overhung boulder with just about everything in the book.  chris put down "fingers malone", a hard almost horizontal crack that goes at V7.  I had my eye on a highball V5, "ninjas have ultimate power" and sent it first try at dusk, it was perfect; but of course no one took photos so i took some of chris cruising it after.

  Jeff here, so we pulled in saturday night after a nine hour trip, yeah, too long. First day was cool because there was a possibility of rain or snow, and both were no shows. It was cold but the climbing was awesome. Next morning was the coldest its been 22 degrees. We headed out to Hawks nest dam, nestled in between heavily wooded hills, the sun came out right on top of us, and what started as a frigid morning turned into perfect climbing weather. Jeans an a flannel ya dig. Eric unfortunatley had to take a rest day but hes out workin the walls now. Chris and Lee sent an awesome V6 with a super tight hand heel match that rocks into a perch, thing was sweet. I worked a four earlier that lee and chris also sent, couldnt get the first move, but went back for one last stop and made real progress. I killed myself on that thing, felt great but no send...i wanna go back. "Ut oh" Lee Walter says to my left, good times, talk to yall later

Hawks Nest Dam

Hawks Nest Sunset

Jeff on Slitty Titty

Eric on v2? v3? ask him.

Jeff on his first V4 "mines of moria"

Vanek making the crazy cross on "Fingers Malone" V7

"Ninjas Have Ultimate Power" Highball V5

Lee Sending "Slitty Titty"